Saturday, 9 August 2014

Cornwall and Devon Summer 2014

Taking a half day from work I tell the office that they may be able to contact me by texting my personal mobile in an emergency if I have a signal on my Cornish cliff top campsite by Friday lunchtime I've signed off and ready to pack the car before setting off west along the M3 (traffic not great but not bad considering first day of the school holidays) and down the A303 before stopping off at my brother's for a catchup and sustenance. Saturday morning we set off bright and early through a hot sun. We is me, Jack and Maya as Lily-Rose is holidaying the first week with friends and Debbie is working til Thursday. Drive again isn't too bad except for crawling over Bodmin Moor and we're at George's Field early afternoon. We pitch in a sea mist which soon clears to sunshine then go into St Agnes and wander down to the beach which is pretty minimal as the sea is in. Back at the site we meet up with Bruce and Khaldoun and the Yorkshire contingent Malcolm, Lisa, Catherine and Tony. The latter and I go chumping then after the barbeque we have a roaring fire during which we're joined by a couple of kids from across the vast empty field (that's the beauty of George's Field) and then their mother comes over to get them and stays entranced by the fire only going when her kids have run off and husband joins us. A good first night and after two early starts the sleeping bag is welcomed.

St Agnes cottages

Sunday is overcast but dry so us three and Bruce & Khaldoun cycle through St Agnes and on to Chapel Porth Beach. The winter storms have stripped about 6 foot depth of sand from the cove so now it's rocks with a bit of sand rather than the vast beach that you could walk along to the next bay and beach. We swim a bit and then tackle the killer hill back up the valley then back to camp. By this time Ramsay, Jo, Poppy and Maisie have arrived and we cycle / car to Perranporth for a drink at the beach bar before tackling the hill back to Trevallas to cook supper and then crowd around our camp fire which nearly causes a Cornish bush fire on the tinder dry grass. Get to bed just as the heavens open  allaying any fears that a rogue ember will jump out and burn the tents down. First day of our non working week sees drizzle and showers so we hot foot it into Truro with the Palmers to see Dawn of the Planet of the Apes and by the time they've started their dominance in the late afternoon the sun is out with a vengeance. We wander round Truro and the impressive cathedral twice before finding a decent pub for a swift one then back to George's Field stopping off at the Miners Arms in Mithian. Jo makes a fantastic chilli for tea then it's warming ourselves round the fire listening to Malcolm's beat box. Tuesday starts very hot driving us out of the nylon tents and I get sunburnt knees poking out of the shade of the porch. I go for a solo ride through St Agnes and up to The Beacon but as it's an off road flinty track I need to get off and push to get to the trig point at the top where I can see for miles and miles. Once back to the tent we chill in the hot sun before hitting Perranporth beach just as the sun goes in. We attempt to surf for a while and the sea temperature is pretty mild although hardly mediterranean so it's off to the beach bar for a quickie before going back to the camp site to stoke up the barbie and, yeah, sit around the fire with Malcolm's Late Night Boom Box Request Show for entertainment; request a group / song and Malcolm plays it or the nearest thing he has. Spotify it ain't.


Chapel Porth beach bereft of sand

There may be surfers ahead...

Sunday Sunset
View from the camp

Sunset watching

So it does shine out of Ramsay's proverbial
From St Agnes Beacon towards our campsite

View from the Beacon

Another gorgeous sunset

Farmer Georges Field aka Trevellas Manor Farm

Wednesday starts sweltering as yesterday so we drive to Holywell Bay for lunch and a laze on the beach then search for cricket umpire stones, perfectly smooth white and same sizes, with Bruce for his club lead umpire. Back home me and the kids go for a walk through the local airfield and over the cliff tops before dropping down to the beach along from St Agnes and then up the valley past the tin mine chimneys and into a beautiful shady wood with stream tumbling down. Once back I drive Bruce to the Miners Arms to find out if there is an open mic tomorrow, disappointed, and after a swift one we're back to help Khaldoun with his mega That curry for 17 (seventeen) which we eat sat civilised at candlelit tables in the dark wondering what the rest of the campers must think of us. We already know they don't like us due to either noise or more likely jealousy. Need I say we have a fire to end the night. Thursday excited as Debbie arrives in the afternoon. Yay! A thankfully cooler start to the day and chill out in the morning in the hazy sun before driving through Truro and into St Clements for a short estuary walk. Meet Debbie from the train and drive back to camp then into St Agnes for the pop quiz where the Southerners' Three Donkey Pile Up team beat the Northerners handsomely winning a bottle of wine then onto another pub to watch a Welsh band who are very good when lively and singing the drunken sailor song. Back to camp we have a quick burst of the fire that's stoking before turning in. Friday is an overcast morning turning to heavy rain then persistent rain all day. Not a great start for Debbie. We hang around the tents with Bruce and Khaldoun chatting and chilling out. Failed bbq attempt gives way to stove cooking then we all huddle into our tent being joined by the Palmer clan making us 10 and cosy.

Cliff top walk

Atop the cliffs

Tin Mine Valley

Tin Mines

The Mega Thai Curry in progress

Started as we meant to go on - look and weep Palmers!

Saturday we're up early, too early the kids moan, to pack the partially dry tents before saying our goodbyes to one and all and we depart for our Combe Martin cottage picking up Lily-Rose en route so we're all together again. A modern robust fixed holiday home awaits us which to be honest feels nicer than last years poky old world cottage as it's spacious and light. We hope the rooster and chickens have good lie ins and don't wake us too early. Sunday sees us having a leisurely breakfast and drying and airing some of our damp camping stuff. Then off to Combe Martin beach for a blast of hot sun, often popping out of the clouds, and a swim for me and the kids. Dark clouds threaten and drop a few spits of rain on us then back to the cottage to coax the bbq into action and cook vegan sausages next to the local butchers marinaded sausage and chicken which is now the responsibility of Jack to tend. Monday we awake to another beautifully sunny morning with the resident rooster crowing at a fairly reasonable hour. At least I didn't hear him if he was crowing at 5am. A leisurely breakfast then early afternoon we drive to Lynton and through the Valley of the Rocks to the gorgeous Lee Bay next to the abbey grounds. We don't swim but stand on the boulders as the waves come in then do a bit of rock clambering. Then for the very steep drive up the single track coastal route rewarded with amazingly beautiful views along the cliffs. We lunch at the pub at Blackmoor Gate then back home to relax for the rest of the afternoon. Maya and I go for a short / long (distance / time) bike ride towards Parracombe going up and down some very steep and narrow lanes one so steep that in my lowest gear my skinny tyres are slipping on the mossy gravel as I turn the pedals and I have to give up and push. Again, the reward is a lovely dipping sun viewed down the valley towards Combe Martin. We get home just as Debbie and Lily-Rose return from shopping and after a tasty tea we settle down to watch Rush.

Beautiful and Vicious

Lee Beach

Lee Beach waves

Lee Beach again

Lee Beach cove
Devon is Heaven

Rolling hills of the north Exmoor coastline

Our garden - note hens and tent drying

Maya stopping for picturesque rest

Sun coming down over Combe Martin

Maya rests before tacking the false flat

Tuesday another gorgeous morning with a few grey clouds passing overhead. The usual leisurely breakfast before we realise it's noon so wake the boy and feverish activity to get out of our abode. As the day is glorious we go to Putsborough beach which is the far end of Woolacombe sands. Definitely need suncream and we swim and body board before and after lunch. Mid afternoon clouds over ominously and we pack and go thinking about a walk through the woods near home but by the time we reach Higher Dean Cottage it's raining cats and dogs so ensconce ourselves in the dry and warm for the evening. Mid week we wake to the rooster cock a doodle dooing on our veranda and it's a lovely sunny morning again. We're all awake earlyish and Jack and I go for a two hour bike ride through Parracombe up and down some vicious hills. Get back and the girls are out horse riding, well, not Debs but she stays with them. Whilst getting bike stuff in I accidentally turn and nearly step on the rooster who then attacks my leg pecking a hole in the skin. After that the next couple of times I leave the safely of the house the damn thing goes for me and I resort to carrying a broom handle to fend it off. Of course the girls think it's hilarious that I'm clutching a broom whilst eating lunch with the rooster stalking up and down the fence giving me the evil eye. Later in the afternoon we drive to Hunters Inn and walk down the lovely valley to Heddon Mouth for a photo shoot on the rocks with various posing and jumping in the air.

Surfing at Putsborough sands
Heddon valley

Heddon Valley kids

Heddon Valley Heart

Heddon's Mouth - spot Lily-Rose

Debbie and Maya

Lily-Rose


Stars

Rock hopping

Racing


Thursday yet another glorious day and I'm up early for a cycle leaving just after 8am and getting back 4 hours later. Just about make it up the really steep hills through Parracombe and just past Lynton, and coming down is just as hard on gravelly surfaces, before a long though enjoyable ascent onto Exmoor then down into my homeland of Somerset and Simonsbath. Shady country lanes and moorland back to Blackmoor Gate and on the way home down the road towards Combe Martin I just can't bring myself to stop as the rapid descent is so much fun and within minutes I find myself at Combe Martin beach. Bracing myself for the long climb back to where we're staying I have a packet of peanuts and a half of cider at the The Focsle Inn overlooking the beach then it's up some ridiculously steep hills and yes, at the start I had to get off and push for about 20 yards or so. By this time the sun is really beating down where there are trees I cycle on the wrong side of the road in the shade. I'm going the back route rather than the main road I cycled down and after the really steep start it sort of flattens out so my heart beat goes out of the danger zone and I sail back to the cottage. After recovery and lunch and after the girls get back from horse riding we all go into Woolacombe to sit on the very crowded and hot beach cooling off in the tepid water catching the surf. Barbeque in the evening then after another Lily-Rose quiz we're off to bed where I sleep like a log. Friday another beautiful day of sun, we've been so lucky these past two weeks, but everyone sleeps in til mid morning. After lunch we drive to Lynton where the girls shop and Jack and I stop at the Valley of the Rocks and go on a cliff top walk spotting goats and a deer. Debbie calls to say she's found a lovely vintage French bike to replace her broken Dutch one and once we all meet up in town we pay the antique shop owner saying we'll collect next day. In the evening we have chips on Combe Martin beach then Jack, Maya and myself walk along the rocks exploring a cave and we all watch the beautiful sun set. A great end to our last day of the holiday.

The dawn chorus sees me off nice and early

Steep climb from the Lynton junction

Cattle grids welcome you to the moors

Toward the Bristol Channel

Mid morning rest and snack spot

Combe Martin beach - before the brutal ascent home
Garmin map of ride - http://connect.garmin.com/activity/559577031 - I didn't reach 51 mph! max was 35

The wide open sands of Woolacombe Beach

Moorland cliff goat

Sunset over Combe Martin bay on our last evening
Saturday morning we awake to torrential rain. We pack the car during the breaks and make for the A303 after picking up Debbie's new bike in Lynton and meandering over Exmoor. 8 hours after leaving Combe Martin we arrive back in Balham. A long journey but worth it as we're now in glorious sunshine again. We're all weary after the drive and worried about Casper the Cat who turns up after a couple of hours missing his collar and cat flap magnet. And thinner. Good to be back home but great memories of a fantastic holiday. When the sun's out there is nowhere better in the world than the West Country to relax in.