Jim's Holidays: February 2022

Debbie’s found what looks like a lovely cottage in the depths of Devon in west Chilla close by Halwill Junction, Beaworthy. Setting off on a mid morning Monday the traffic is OK and bang on schedule we reach Crewkerne where we stop off at Gill’s new place and go for some lunch with Jack at a local café. Then it’s back on the road and after some fannying around near Beaworthy we reach our home for the week which is even more lovely than it looked on-line. Debbie’s choices get better and better. It’s an old converted barn with ancient timbers supporting the ceiling. Immaculately clean, all mod cons, everything you could want for a week in fact looks like the owners spent a fair bit of time going on holiday and noting down everything you could wish for in a holiday cottage. After a couple of gins and a bite to eat we jump into the pièce de resistance being a hot tub in the garden. With a very nice bottle of prosecco served in flutes especially for this purpose being plastic. I said they’d thought of everything. What else would you drink in a hot tub except for sparkling wine. It’s pretty cold outside and spits with rain which makes the tub even nicer to be in.

Tuesday we have a lazy morning and then go for a wander. Past the Methodist Chilla Chapel, quite big really, and along a track through woods and past plantations until we reach Halwill village. We visit the local sites of interest being newsagents, sewing shop, chip shop, hairdressers and the war memorial which by the names brings home how many families were greatly affected by WWI. We then have a quick drink in the Junction pub which is cosy enough with lots of photos of steam trains. This was a big railway junction, hence the village and pub name, before the Beeching cuts in the early 60s. We then retrace our steps at first along the old railway line home where we spend a lazy afternoon reading and a lazy evening reading and hanging out in the hot tub looking at the half moon and stars peeping between mist and clouds. Lovely.

Wednesday morning it’s rained in the night and does so a bit more before glorious sunshine appears. We’re going west to an ancient market dating from at least the charter granted in the 12 century at Holsworthy and then on to Bude and then the cliffs for amazing views. Ah, the best laid plans of mice and men. The market was about 6 stalls of cheap toot, bar a couple, and we needn’t’ve put 2 hours worth on the pay and display. We were off in 20 minutes. We drove to Bude and parked next to the beach emerging into either rain or sea spray or a very low fog. Or all three. It felt like it. Undeterred by a bit of damp we wander into Bude and then seawards along the canal which was built for taking goods to and from Holsworthy to the coast and has a big sea lock which is still in use. We wander along the beach watching the waves crashing in and a lone surfer trying to tame them. After warming up in the car and a food shopping we drive up the coast along narrow lanes to Coombe Valley and down to the sea at Duckpool. It’s a rocky beach with a stream going into it but guess it’s sandy with the tide out. We wander around admiring the cliffs, rocks and the turbulent sea which we could both spend hours looking at if it weren’t so wet and cold out. Our last excursion is to Morwenstow where we wander towards the cliffs but turn back as it’s very muddy and we can’t see 20 yards in front so going to a cliff is probably not worth it. Instead we visit the church which is surprisingly big and there’s a massive vicarage next to it. The church is old and has a very old font. I resist a bit of campanology by pulling on the bell ropes and instead we wander round the graveyard stopping at the section with local kids, and many are kids, sent to fight in WWI and not returning. By now we’re feeling the early February chill and we turn homewards for a lazy late afternoon and evening in front of the wood burning stove.

Thursday is meant to be a sunnier day and we drive to Shaugh Prior car park to set out on a walk over the moors. The first bit of the walk is up and around the the Dewerstone rock made more arduous by me not turning off the main path in time and us having to double back on ourselves. With the steep bit over we are out of the trees and walk over the moor down to Cadover Bridge where we stop for lunch. It’s a bit damp out as a rain cloud came over and showered us back on the moor but the sun’s out now. The walk back to the car follows the river (think it’s the Plym) and a ceramic irrigation pipe that is mainly above the ground and now broken up. It’s a lovely walk through the trees starting next to the tumbling river and rising above it through the wood. The pipe rises with us and then drops down when we do. So not entirely sure what is was used for as seems to be taking water from the river before dropping back down to the river. Possibly built by the grand old duke of York? Anyways it’s a pleasant walk back to the car where we change out of muddy boots and drive home via the main road going over Dartmoor through Two Bridges. A lovely drive over the magnificent open moorland. Back home it’s a lovely cup of tea in front of the fire. After tea it’s a clear night with a half moon with a few clouds scudding by so we sit in the hot tub supping wine and star gazing picking out Orion in the south and the plough in the north.

Friday morning we wake late and there’s still a frost on the grass. It’s cold and beautiful cloudless sky is a brilliant blue. After breakfast I go for a walk and Debbie decides to relax at home. Probably a good option as although the walk was enjoyable and exhilarating I find myself going in and out of muddy cow fields, along a very muddy bridleway through a wood and then across an open field that turns out to be a boggy marsh. With a few streams to cross. At one point my whole boot goes into a boggy bit and I can feel my sock getting soggy. Ah well, I eventually get onto a farm track and back onto the road down to the Chilla Chapel and home. After lunch Debbie and I lounge around in the hot tub which is just right for soothing overworked limbs. Dinner is a trip to Karen’s chippy for some proper fat chips and then to watch the disappointing Once Upon a Time in Hollywood.

Saturday we’re up early to finish packing and then the drive back to London stopping off at Duncan’s for lunch. A lovely break.