As it's a big birthday for Debbie we eschew our usual new years eve at the Windmill and on Monday 30th fly to Budapest. Although delayed it's an easy trip and taxi ride to our apartment which is right in the centre of town. It's a lovely place and nice and warm. Braving the sub zero temperature we wander through deserted streets to the nearby parliament building which is beautifully lit (lights out at 10 pm) and has a lovely Christmas Tree outside. Even the trams have Christmas lights. We wander back via the 24 hour shop to get supplies. Our first full day is spent wandering through the city (Pest to be exact) which has beautiful buildings reminiscent of Paris or Lille. We walk through the Jewish quarter with it's massive synagogue then after aiming for places that are either crazy busy or shut we drop into a typical bar for a couple of drinks to warm ourselves up. We happen to pass the place where we stayed a few years ago then I get a chimney cake to nibble on our way home. After eating we go out about 11 to the parliament building next to the Danube where we join a throng of mainly locals watching sporadic firework displays across the river in Buda. We sup our wine whilst others have shots. There's no official display but a lot of big fireworks are set off anyway. As everyone counts down to midnight there is mass excitement and then lots of fireworks and flares set off. Lots of Happy New Years (a lot in English) and of course Happy Birthday to Debbie from myself. A space clears near us and someone lights a big box with industrial grade fireworks which some locals watching from a few feet away. We thread through the crowd out of danger. No health and safety inspections here! We wander along the river a bit with the sound and sight of fireworks still going on then home to our warm flat and for Debbie to open her cards and a couple of presents I brought with us.
New Years Day / Debbie's Birthday we wake at a civilised hour and after breakfast walk up to Városliget Park. The street goes from downtown chic to pretty run down within half a mile or so. Then opens into the big Heroes' Square with galleries on each side (art and museum) and various historical statues and big gates that reminds us of the Brandenburg Gate. The park beyond has a lovely sprinkling of snow so at least we saw some here. We are here for the hot springs and check into the Széchenyi Thermal Bath with our fast track VIP tickets. Outside is literally freezing but soon we are relaxing in the hot baths which is fantastic. There are two main outside pools divided by a 50 metre lanes pool. It's crowded but not so you feel squashed. Lots of groups of families (no young kids though) and friends and it's obviously a place that youngsters hang out to flirt. A great atmosphere and perfect after a late night before. Reminds me of the Cross Bath in Bath where I learnt to swim - although that held about 20 kids maximum. Debbie ventures into the sauna whilst I swim a few lengths wearing my mandatory swim cap then we go up to the exclusive bar area for a mulled wine. Then back outside past the indoor pools which I don't see the point of as the outside ones are in the middle of such a wonderful building. We hang out for ages being massaged by the high pressure jets and going round with lots of others in the whirlpool thing. Time out for sauna and a swim then we just relax until the sun goes down and the yellow floodlights come on making the place even more atmospheric with the rising steam. Dashing inside we have a final chill out in the bar area then change and pop across to the Christmas market for chips and mulled wine with palinka the local fruit brandy. We walk round the Vajdahunyad Castle then past the ice rink full of proficient skaters. Finally back into town along the main boulevard past massive houses, hotels, embassies and luxury flats. So different from the street we walked up which is just the next street parallel. A few snowflakes fall on us as we walk so at least we got to see some in our trip. Back home we have some Hungarian sparkling wine, a bit like a perry (Babycham), to end a lovely day.
Our last full day we go over the Danube to Buda and scale the hill to catch the great views over Pest and beyond. Unfortunately it's so foggy you can't see across the river let alone over the city. No worries as it makes it atmospheric and we walk up a tree lined street at the back of the hill past white trees with a hard frost on them that give the impression of blossom. Then back along the more touristy route past the castle and back down and across the Danube. It's a lot like Prague with the river separating the two side and a hill on one side. We eat at a great poke bowl place then home. Friday we leave our place and after a couple of false starts get coffee in a very traditional looking cafe then food in a modern gluten free place. An easy taxi to the airport and soon enough we are soaring high having a wonderful last view of Budapest. It's sunny and clear today. A fantastic way to see in 2025 and Debbie's new year.
