Portugal Summer 18

Earlyish start on Saturday to get to Gatwick where we grab breakfast and fly out to Porto. It’s very hot here. After the usual hire care added costs (highway tolls, airport tax, something else undetermined) we are speeding up the motorway and soon enough reach our villa in Fantao to be welcomed by dad and then the very chatty owner who shows us around and then some. Next it’s a visit to the local town Ponte de Lima for a supermarket shop to get in the essentials and little luxuries. Once back we explore our 4 bedroom 3 bathroom villa which has a games room gorgeous kitchen living area and an outside covered chilling and barbeque area where I chill with my morning tea each day. Also a big room where they used to make wine which still has the foot powered grape standing areas and old barrels. The grounds are magnificent and kept very well. The villa is set in a vineyard so every so often people pop in to work. And the views of the hills to the south are amazing. And then there’s the 12m pool which is soon filled with the contents of my suitcase (inflatable flamingo, pineapple, water melon, lilo and zimmer frame). OK, they were worth bringing! After a bit of exploring the house and grounds and pasta for tea we turn in after a complimentary port for me (they owners left wine and a bottle of port for us).

Sunday is a little less hot and I drink my morning tea listening to the birds singing and church bell tolling, usually single bells rather than the peals of rural England. Late morning we drive up into the hills of the local national park finding an off road place to picnic. Fantastic views from up here and lovely relaxing in the shade of trees. Another supermarket visit, this time a different one to find more vegan and gluten free food which we are well catered for this time. Once back home we hang out at the pool and Jack and I have a game of table tennis then table football. We have our evening meal in the covered out house. It clouds over in the evening firstly big dark ones settling on the tops of the distant hills then enveloping them and then it rains whilst we’re eating dinner.

Monday is not quite so hot and we go to the weekly market at Ponte de Lima. To be honest it’s mainly clothes, how can this be profitable for so many stalls?, and we then wander round the older parts of town. By this time the sun is out in full force and its boiling hot. We come back home for lunch and make full use of the pool. Evening is a barbeque and relaxing by the pool again as it’s still hot.

Tuesday is a scorcher and we don’t move from the pool except for me to hide inside for a while. Debbie and I wander into the local village centre late afternoon but the effort of walking for 30 minutes wipes us out and we doze off on the pool loungers, as do the kids to be fair. After dinner we all mess about in the pool until way past dark when the new moon rises and falls and the bats weave in and out of the trees.

Wednesday another scorcher and apart from a quick visit to the local supermarket we hang around the pool all day and have a spot of table tennis. I hide in the north facing bit underneath the house which has a couple of benches presumably for getting out of the sun for a while. We have another barbeque then hang out by the pool and then inside.

Thursday early(ish) morning the surrounding hills are enshrouded in clouds but by mid morning the fierce sun has burnt them off and it’s scorching hot again. After our morning dips we drive into the local port town of Viana do Castello where we wander round the old streets and end up at the waterfront which is mainly modern and industrialised. Next we take a trip up the funicular railway to the pousada and big church at the top which has a wedding in progress when we go in. So not much looking around the glorious church but we do get to see a bit of a Portuguese wedding. After waiting for the funicular to be fixed we descend and drive back home via the hilly road and cross the river at Ponte de Lima. The usual evening spent eating rice and veggies (thanks girls) in the covered eating area then hanging out by the pool and finally flicking through various music channels and weird kids channels before retiring.

Friday morning the girls get up early to watch the sun rise then go back to bed and we all wake in a leisurely manner. Final day and we spend it by the pool except for a brief excursion into town for provisions for our final meal. Another scorching day doing not a lot except for reading, dipping and a bit of table tennis and table football. We watch the moon rise and planets and stars come out after dinner by the pool.

Saturday we’re up earlyish to leave before 10 when we drive to a beach north of Porto. It’s a busy one but at least we see the Portuguese at play. Which mainly consists of standing either near the waterline or knee deep gazing out to sea and being buffeted by the waves. They are pretty big and no one is actually swimming. No body boarders either although a few surfers riding the waves. It’s scorching hot with no shade so Debbie and I leave the kids to fry and find a nearby churchyard with shady trees to relax and read in. Then it’s time to get to the airport with only mild stress in finding a petrol station, then the car hire place, then having them notice a slight scratch on the plastic. We’re easily through check-in and security and after an uneventful flight we breeze through Gatwick passport control to meet our driver who goes the scenic route back to Balham station to drop off Jack and Maya and then take me, Debbie and Lily-Rose home to make a fuss of Casper. A lovely holiday and we can prove it by our tans.

Maya posing against the hills reflecting the sunset

The villa

View from the hills where we picniced

Ponte de Lima Monday market - spot Debbie

Ponte de Lima typical old street

The kids in the pool with inflatables getting in the way of Jack

What long legs you have Maya - and the wrong way round! Or is Lily-Rose in there too?

Lily-Rose all dressed up and nowhere to go (except the kitchen)

Our dining room which was al fresco

The dining room

Wine making place which every villa has I think

Funicular railway up to the Santa Luzia church

View from Santa Luzia

And Santa Luzia itself

The house from the pool

Hanging out at the kitchen door

Note the stone blocks that hold up the vine cables. Nice top Lily-Rose!

Gateway to paradise

Kitchen area - is Maya really loading the dishwasher?

Jack had a strenuous holiday

Getting on that flamingo is not so easy - well done Lily-Rose!

Maya getting worried that her 2nd piece of water melon is drifting away

Vegan on the left, chicken on the right - I'm mean on the BBQ - not those posing

Hannover Heat Summer of 18

Our flight to Hannover is 2 hours after Lily-Rose’s to Cork so after enduring the Sauna Train up to Stansted I wait for hours to be able to check in our case. Otherwise an uneventful flight and train into the centre and we check into our very nice hotel. Wandering around at midnight uncovers no bars so we raid the mini bar and sleep. Next day is going to be a hot one and we wander through the old part of town, or rather the reconstituted old part following the damage to  every last building that the British inflicted75 years ago, and have a coffee in a church square with wedding ceremony in full flow. Of course the locals are drinking beer and wine and eating massive ice cream sundaes but as it’s not yet 11am we stick to coffee. It’s about 35 degrees already so we slowly make our way down past the river stopping frequently to rest in the shade and picnic breakfast next to the new, well, 100 years old, town hall. We go look around and get the very dodgy lift which starts at an angle up to the very top of the hall for spectacular views across Hannover and Saxony. I wonder if this is where my distant ancestors come from being British and Anglo Saxon. Some of me at least I’m sure. Next we wander through a park and down to the big lake Maschsee where we lunch on drinks, when in Germany, and chips. Then it’s a hot walk back past the football ground to the centre where we pick up our luggage and train out to Lutz and Johanna’s village. They have converted an amazing old house which the pictures will do justice rather than words. We are in the guest complex. We have home made pizza in the garden and after a few more local beers and a walk in the countryside and village turn in for the night.

Saturday we wake in a leisurely fashion but with a 6 year old and 10 week baby Lutz and Johanna have been up for hours. Ah, the joys of kids. It’s full on what with the kids and Debbie and I being put to work on self build furniture then friends dropping in for a chat, and beer of course, then Tina, Jens and the girls arrive in their motor home. It’s too hot to do much except for hide in the shade so that’s what we do chatting and drinking. Another great dinner picking at all sorts of delicacies then a walk around the village to see the horses. Us boys try to visit the local pub but unfortunately it’s closed. Maybe just as well. Sunday is a little cloudier but we all go to the local lido anyway and soon the sun comes up to heat us up. It’s a great place with decent sized pool, diving and spring boards all set in a wooded area with sun loungers and a café where we buy chips. Like a country club really. Soon though it’s time to part and we’re driven to the airport where Lutz and Johanna ask me to be baby Tom’s godfather, I think as I’ve been trying to persuade him to become a vegan Gooner cricketer. I’m greatly honoured and it’s the perfect way to end our stay in Germany. Thanks Family Klostermann! Flight home is good and fast. Chaos on the railway back to London but this is the UK not Germany!

Hannover church - not the one when went in

View from the top of the Neues Rathaus

Debs enjoying the view

The man made Maschsee

Hannover 96 ground

Rathaus from above

Maschsee - it was hot!

Arsenal legend coming home - for a bit

Rathaus from the police station complex

Waiting for the train

Lutz outside the servants quarters

Tom the future vegan cricketer - Levi was too fast to get any photos of!

Debbie chilling

Back of the house

Stables and house

The main residence

Lutz trying to separate meaty and vegan sausages

Johanna Tom and Tina

Fork at the ready!

Where are the sausages?

Papa, are you really going to eat ALL those sausages?

Contrières World Cup et le Tour 2018

Thursday is post England losing to Croatia so we won't be in France for a France v England final. So I don't pack the England shirt which is maybe just as well from a safety point of view. I was actually fretting about whether I'd be beaten up by irate Gallics when dancing around in Coutances town square in an England shirt having seen England's 3rd and uncontested goal go in in the 85th minute. Ah well, Arsenal have a new manager so there's the club season to look forward to. Thursday I'm meeting Chris and Pete at Waterloo at 6.30 for the 7pm train to Portsmouth and fretting if the guard will let our bikes on. Check the trains at 5pm and see that Waterloo is closed as track just outside closed and complete chaos. Phone Pete and arrange to meeting ASAP at Waterloo and if really bad plan B is Pete's van. Pick up Chris at his place en route luckily he's ready to go. Waterloo is bad but trains running and we sneak through the gates onto a 6.30 train (before the official 7pm allowed time) which is pretty packed but space to get the bikes on. Arrive Portsmouth at original time of 8.30 and cycle to the port to board. A couple of beers then turn in in our cosy cabin for a short but stable sleep.

Friday woken at an ungodly hour by the ferry trying to get us to spend money on breakfast and by 6.50am we're cycling up the cloudy coolish coast but great riding conditions except for the odd stretch of sand on gravel. We're hardly tip top - me recovering from a chest infection and puffing salbutamol (it's prescribed honest!), Chris has a terrible cold and Pete suffering from cat related lack of sleep. A camel and alpaca are the weirdest thing we see grazing at the side of one road. We go past Juno (Canadian) and Gold (British) beaches with their off shore landing stages still in place and anti-tank things on the beaches. After a while we leave the coast at Arromanches then at Bayeaux we take the train (I'm out voted) to Lison where we join the lovely riverside ride into Saint Lo. By now the sun is out in force and we lunch on a no cheese pizza and cheese plate. Through Dangy where I check out the church and we stock up on supplies at Roncey before arriving at Contrieres to be welcomed by Simon with well needed cold beers and soon Jules returns laden with goodies. Simon's curry goes down very well and after the mandatory bike fiddling and a quick walk around the block we turn in for a well earned sleep.
Caen port to Contriers in 67 miles: https://www.strava.com/activities/1700328581

A cloudy start along the coast past gothic holiday homes 

The first cafe we find that's open

Juno Beach

Pete cycles past the guns of Juno

Chris stops to reflect

Further on up the coast

Turning inland towards Bayeaux

Pete tries out the bike rack on the train to Lison

Riverside to Saint Lo

Dangy church - note odd head coming out of the egg

Dangy church

And on towards Contrieres

Five Cyclists Clothes

Friday's route (straight bit in the middle is the train)

Saturday is no respite as Simon has a fun packed day planned. First off me him and Jules tootle off to a local boot sale or vide where I'm tooted out but meet the Contrieres mayor who's admiring my bike. After a quick swim in the river we cycle home carrying metal garden furniture precariously. Then the five of us cycle on the inland route to Pirou (I won't mention the Rotisserie Chicken Episode - just study the Strava route) under a scorching sun stopping off at the Chateau de Gratou vide to browse the crap and drink cider. At Pirou tide is way out but there's a pool that is filled with sea water so we get to cool off with a dip. Ride back along the busier coast road but French drivers are forgiving of cyclists and we're soon home. Jules rustles up a fabulous pasta meal and after our evening constitutional it's time for sleep. For me at least.

Pirou loop in 47 miles: https://www.strava.com/activities/1702412050

Simon & Jim having a dip post boot sale

Poseurs

Riding up the coast, inland

Pirou plage

  

A well deserved evening meal - thanks Jules!

Tabac sign

Saturday's route to Pirou

Sunday is another hot one and after a lay in and breakfast we cycle to Hauteville sur Mer Plage (RIP Matt) where the sea is in so after a swim and lay in the sun we retire to a cafe where due to all in the party trying to help the waitress understand what I can and can't eat by shouting out in pigeon French I end up with lettuce and chips. I have a 25 year old calvados to make up for it. Then it's down to Montmartin and down to the river for a swim where I nearly brain myself with a tree branch. Then it's up to Montmartin cultural centre to watch the World Cup Final (we didn't bother with England's 3rd place play off yesterday although a French guy told me we lost). The place is very quiet despite over a thousand there and the makeshift bar is empty. Very different to England. Things liven up as it seems certain that France will win and at final whistle a few of the youngsters jump about and even spill a little beer but it's soon mopped up. Final score 4-2 and I'm still owed ten euros from everyone. Cycle back home avoiding the nasty gravel road to watch le Tour on the nasty cobbles before asparagus for tea. I visit the church and have a look in the tower before a last drink and turn in.

Hauteville loop in 24 miles: https://www.strava.com/activities/1704913477

Hauteville sur Mer Plage cafe - waiting for my plate of lettuce

Pre match swim at Hyenville

Not so atmospheric at Montmartin sur Mer

France scoring gets a few cheers

Final whistle...

... we've won again!

Raucousness nearly breaks out. But not quite.

Simon's gaff

Sun sets on our brief escursion

Sunday's route to Hauteville sur Mer Plage

Monday sees a big breakfast before Jules and Pete sneak off early leaving Simon, Chris and me to clean and tidy up the house. After an hour or so we catch up the break away stopping at a German WWII cemetery. It's a long ride as I'm suffering from sunstroke, chest infection and Chris' cold which has jumped to me. We're up and down the switchbacks to Cherbourg going straight to the port for a cold beer. It's very quiet today, maybe a post Bastille Day / post World Cup holiday? Starts sunny but by Cherbourg it's overcast with even a couple of spots of rain. We board the fast boat to Portsmouth then it's goodbyes to Simon and Jules before the three of us get the train to Waterloo through the English countryside in a gorgeous evening. Then it's out into London traffic which we've forgotten how bad the drivers are. Great trip - thanks guys.

Contrieres to Cherbourg in 56 miles: https://www.strava.com/activities/1706306180
Another 10 miles when back in England.

German WWII cemetary...

... goes off into the distance

A lot of teenagers here - last throw of the dice

Outside Cherbourg - no pizza but a weird doggy parlour (see name)

Monday's route