In Pursuit of Summer

Late last year Simon rediscovered a book that I gave him for his 40^th birthday so over a fifth of a century ago. In Pursuit of Spring was written in 1913 by Edward Thomas who was a poet and author who’d ridden from Stockwell where he lived to the Bristol Channel at Bridgwater. I’d inscribed in now faded writing “From where you live to where I was born”. We both re-read the travel book and decided that we should follow in his footsteps, or rather tyre tracks. Edward went to France in 1917 and was soon killed in action. Debbie and I visited his grave in Arras earlier this year on our way back from Germany. Rather than go the whole route Simon and I decided to follow it to near the Kennet and Avon canal which we had cycled along from Bath to Maidenhead over a decade ago (https://psicle.blogspot.com/2013/04/kennet-and-avon-jaunt.html) and then on into Bath. I was brought up in Bath and it’s where we met so an appropriate place to aim for. Obviously roads were different over a century ago and some of the main routes are now juggernaut infested dual carriageway A roads, as we did find out. So being part of the Walk Wheel Cycle Trust (nee Sustrans) I plan a route along various National Cycle Network (NCN) routes and take a few way marking stickers with me in case the route isn’t clear. I did find NCN routes that pretty much followed Edward’s route. We meet early on a Tuesday morning outside Edward’s Stockwell house complete with blue plaque and meander up to Clapham Common West Side to another of his houses with plaque then onto meet the NCN at Earlsfield. It’s a coolish morning which is good as last week we had the first of the 2026 heatwaves which would have stopped me tackling any cycling trip. On the NCN we’re away from traffic mostly and we follow the Wandle River, one of the few old rivers that hasn’t been turned into a sewer and meets the Thames in open water but we’re going the other way, up to Morden Hall Park (where I always get lost and did so again) and then into Carshalton where we stop to break open Simon’s tea flask and eat carbs from a local bakery. Up to Woodmansterne following the NCN rather than Edward’s route then up and up to Tattenham Corner and over Epson racecourse. After this the NCN becomes very off road and we hit a steep gravel path, well, big bits of stone and flint rather than hard packed gravel, which we can’t ascend due to tyres slipping and having walked up a bit downhill is just as bad with random tree roots for us to bunny hop or bump over. At this point we decide that the NCN is going to take us an age and ruin our tyres so we only go along it intermittently until we hit the canal although we do unsuccessfully try to use it at times. Having left the NCN we revert in part to Simon’s Beeline navigation system. By this time the sun is out and we are feeling the heat. We drift down bypassing Box Hill into Dorking where we stop for a breather and lunch part one and shelter from fiercely large raindrops which threaten a downpour but fizzle out fairly quickly. A climb to Arbinger Hammer then a coast down to Shere where we stop at a pub for a drink and visit the local church and location for The Holiday romantic film. It’s a lovely place to stop and back in 1913 was apparently “the prettiest village in Surrey” and I doubt that has changed. From now we have a sunny afternoon and we’re mainly on lovely quiet country roads which rise and fall often fairly steeply. After a couple of real leg stretchers up to Binstead we start to drop and soon enough we’re sailing along Alton Normandy Street, which is the high street, looking for the Crown Inn where we are staying. The pub part is being refurbished and the rooms are basic but perfectly adequate given they date back to the 15^th century. Friendly staff find a cupboard to store our bikes and after showers we wander up and down the high street plumbing for Wetherspoons where I have a burger, chips and German wheat beer all for the price of a London pint. We turn in for the night watching a world cup game but I soon drop off. After all, it’s been a long day of 70 miles in 7 hours (hardly le Tour speed I know) and 3,300 feet of ascent. Strava: https://www.strava.com/activities/19126408048

Our second day we’re up and out by 7 am and it’s already warm. The high street is quiet and soon we’re stopping at the Jane Austen house (she lived here for a while whilst revising novels) in Chawton which is a lovely little village. We cross the busy dual carriageway that is the Alton Bypass A31 heading for the NCN. Unfortunately the NCN is a terrible gravel track, or rather a chunky stone track, and our only option apart from a massive detour is to brave the A31. It’s a long drag uphill for 2 miles being passed by cars and lorries at speed but to be fair only one car didn’t move fully over into the fast lane. Although it was clear the arsehole. The plus side is that the road is pretty smooth tarmac and a pretty steady gradient. The road condition really influences cycling uphill as if it’s a broken up and bumpy surface it feels as if you are tackling both the larger hill and each and every little chunky crack in the surface. Whether that’s psychological or not I’m not sure but it certainly drains your energy. Anyway, at the moment things are smooth road wise but the dual carriageway coming down to one lane worries us somewhat but at least it marks the top of the climb and soon enough the speed limit is drastically cut as we dip down into Four Marks. Here we stop for breakfast for me an excellent vegan sausage roll and hash brown, much needed coffee and a flapjack for sugar. Refreshed we take quieter roads mainly downhill for 20 miles or so stopping at Bishop Sutton church which has a typical southern county square steep spire which are often wooden or stone looking continental to my mind. The large graveyard at the back has sparse gravestones with a vista out to the hill beyond. Near the entrance are 3 gravestones with a smaller one in front of each which are the 3 Oakshott children mentioned by Edward in his book. Reminds me of the child gravestones mentioned by Dickens in Great Expectations which I saw in Kent whilst on a ride. Soon after we are in New Alfresford and afterwards fail to find a swim spot in the river but I sort out a couple of NCN signs. After up and down a hill we’re in Winchester where we stop for a snack. After looking at the map we decide to come off Edward’s route which follows the NCN routes down and up to Salisbury and instead head for Stockbridge which is more direct to our destination of Shrewton north of Salisbury. Although more direct I’m sure it is hillier and we go up and down more times than the Grand Old Duke of York. By this time the sun has been beating down all morning and we stop off for a drink in the shade at Stockbridge and grab lunch from the Co-operative store next to a cottage where the family and I used to stay as rented long term by a friend. We picnic at Longstock church then we’re off with a time limit to reach my brother’s place in Shrewton in time for the England game kick off at 5 pm. We think we have plenty of time but it’s tough going from here on due to the hilly terrain, although beautiful, and the heat. We pass through Palestine then cross the A303 for a big loop past various army barracks and warnings about tank crossings so we are well and truly on Salisbury Plain. This is where riding with a friend is very beneficial as you can drag each other up the hills as you sit on the wheel of the other. Until you nearly bonk (a cyclist term) and lose the wheel and see your mate’s butt seemingly skip up the road whilst you feel like just sliding off into a roadside ditch. At this time the one in in front will look back and think Oh No where’d he go? At times we both suffered a near bonk but we got through it. We stop for a rest in the shade of a tree and I water my feet as I have hot foot (cyclist complaint) and sore arse (another cyclist complaint despite padded shorts) then a final long slog up to Larkhill barracks and at last coast down into Shrewton to be welcomed by my brother. Five minutes to kick off. I miss DR Congo’s goal whilst in the shower but the match picks up and we’re through. Maria cooks a lovely meal with home grown rhubarb for pudding. Our hosts are travelling to Amsterdam tomorrow and we are knackered so all turn in just after 10 pm. In my plan today was shorter with less climbing although the latter stat was wrong maybe due to the Stockbridge route… 65 miles in 6 hours (so slightly faster than yesterday) and 3,680 feet of ascent. Strava: https://www.strava.com/activities/19140385950
 
Our last day and we have a lie in until 7 am! After breakfast we say our farewells just as the rain starts spitting down. Within 10 minutes the rain gets heavier and the wind drives it into our faces stinging our eyes but cycling glasses are useless in these conditions. We’re not complaining though as it’s refreshing to be wet through rain rather than sweat. It’s a comparatively gentle ascent up the A360 which is busy but the traffic is very respectful then just past West Lavington we turn off onto a quieter road and as the sun comes out we’re in lovely country lanes. Soon enough we reach the Kennet and Avon canal at the bottom of the Cain Hill Locks but the locks are idle as the one we stop at is faulty so of course the whole flight of 29 can’t be used. The rest of the day is flat although the cycling isn’t wholly easy as the towpath is flinty gravel and dodgy in places so you need to focus made more difficult by my eyes constantly watering I assume by dust. Plus my arms are aching with the shaking but at least my feet feel good and it’s traffic free, bar a peloton of cyclists that approach and speed by us. Incidentally we are now back on the NCN. Lots of houseboats moored along this stretch and a few pleasure barges crawling down the canal so it’s nice to be travelling faster than the alternative mode of transport. We stop at Bradford-on-Avon for coffee and cake sitting in the shade as that rain is a distant memory. Along this route the canal follows the river and the railway the latter two dropping down and the canal going over two spectacular aqueducts at Avoncliff and Dundas. All three, with an adjacent road, loop round the hill that is Claverton coming back round into Bath along a smooth track for us. Off the canal and down the last bit of Bathwick Hill, just down from the Youth Hostel we stayed at when travelling the Kennet and Avon in the other direction, and we stop opposite Parade Gardens just down from the Pavillion where we spent many a night pogoing to punk bands back when teenagers. Simon heads to Bath Spa to train back to London and I skirt the abbey to meet a friend at Kingsmead Square for a coffee. Then I join the river path and then the Bath to Bristol old railway line with a view to Kelston Round Hill where just beyond I grew up, past the Bitton steam railway station and on to my parents for a well needed shower, cuppa and biscuit. An easier day today of
45 miles in just over 4 hours and a measly 800 feet of ascent. Strava: https://www.strava.com/activities/19152159228
 
It’s been a great trip in honour of Edward and we should plan to finish the route next year picking up maybe near  Trowbridge and make our way down to Bridgwater. It will be an easy couple of days and on the map it looks like it’s all downhill. How about it Simon….?